tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post1229976128662312971..comments2023-10-08T09:40:13.409-05:00Comments on Scott's Workshop Notes: Archtop Guitar Build - Side Bending and F-Hole BindingScotthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01216719990472039841noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post-35149625382035950592012-08-16T12:43:18.482-05:002012-08-16T12:43:18.482-05:00Thanks! Yeah I was looking to see what you used f...Thanks! Yeah I was looking to see what you used for a jig and bit. Stewmac is expensive, but I too find that you pay for what you get by not worrying about screwing something up.<br /><br />Thanks for your reply and I think your blog is great! Keep up the good workAcousticRemedyCaseshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13559978991077501420noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post-59136840700907095782012-08-15T10:45:07.159-05:002012-08-15T10:45:07.159-05:00I am not sure I understand your question. The &qu...I am not sure I understand your question. The "f-holes" were cut as per the post and the binding does not have a route but sits flush on the inside face. <br /><br />As far as binding the body of the guitar, I've used a dremel with a home made jig to hold the sides off of the bit (I used a spiral cut bit for this) and the Stew Mac version with the Colt router and standard bit. Of the two, the Stew Mac version is much more expensive but does a much more reliable job as per the disaster strikes post.Scotthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01216719990472039841noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post-33074598085968319342012-08-12T21:38:06.524-05:002012-08-12T21:38:06.524-05:00What router bit and guide did you use? I have loo...What router bit and guide did you use? I have looking at one on Stewmac for a while, but maybe you could help me in my search for what tools I need to complete the job on a semi hollow body electric I am making. <br /><br />I have a Dremel tool that I plan to use, so any help on the two other components would be appreciated! You did a great job on your binding!AcousticRemedyCaseshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13559978991077501420noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post-39376900658908509192012-04-29T10:11:35.767-05:002012-04-29T10:11:35.767-05:00I found that the key to bending the figured maple ...I found that the key to bending the figured maple was to support the top side with some thin metal so that no one area took all of the stress from the bend and caused a crack. Also a lot of heat helps.Scotthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01216719990472039841noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9168394432843667053.post-80866415157317362092012-04-28T08:18:34.052-05:002012-04-28T08:18:34.052-05:00The F holes look great - good work! My experience ...The F holes look great - good work! My experience with bending curly or flamed maple is just like yours. The mahogany I bent, after boiling the sides for 15 minutes each, went like butter. Nice smooth curves, right on the money. I clamped them in the mold and put each set overnight next to the wood strove, which dried them out and "set them nicely. Hardly any spring back. <br /><br />I thought I'd have no problem at all with using 3/64ths strips of curly maple (alternated with a similar size of mahogany) for the bindings on the body and headstock, but I was really surprised. Soaking just sort of melted the wood, making it pasty and impossible to work with. So I ended up bending the strips dry, dampening the side against the iron with a sponge occasionally. the tight curve along the headstock took a full day to get right, and I cracked 4 pieces for every one I installed.Bob Gaffneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08827408606745251903noreply@blogger.com