I thought long and hard about the "F-holes". The key points to my thinking are to keep the edges perfectly parallel to the sides and make sure the holes are perfectly round. From previous experience, I know that your eyes can pick up small imperfections and round holes are prime causes of imperfections. My options were to cut them by hand or spend time building a jig to cut them by router. I chose the hand route since it seemed a little quicker since I am making only one guitar.
The book calls for cutting the "f-holes" into the finished carved top plate but once you carve the top plate, you've removed the flat bottom of the plate. That flat bottom could act as a support during the cutting of the "f-holes" (rather than a narrow perimeter) and also help in layout. I started by measuring where the centers of the round portions of the "f-holes" were located and I marked them on the flat back of the top plate. This was much easier than trying to find them on a curved surface. I then drilled small pilot holes from back to front on these marks using the carving jig as a support. These pilot holes were used as references for scribing the shape of the "f-hole" onto the top side of the plate. Next, the appropriate sized forestner bits were used to drill the perfectly round and perpendicular holes (I used a small backing plate to prevent tear-out on the back side). This is what the plate looked like at this time.
- Archtop Guitar Build - Side Bending and F-Hole Bin...
- Archtop Guitar Build - Top Plate and F Holes
- Archtop Guitar Build - Carving the Inside of the P...
- Archtop Guitar Build - Smoothing the Plates
- Archtop Guitar Build - Carving the Plates (making ...
- Archtop Guitar Build - Safe-T Planer
- Archtop Guitar Build - Millwork, Jigs and Tools
- Cuckoo Clock Repair
- Archtop Guitar Build - Lofting the Top and Back
- Archtop Guitar Build - Opening thoughts...
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